George Bernard Shaw once said "We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing" and this is exactly what my conversation with Felipe Pomar sparked in my mind. Felipe Pomar is a surfing icon and is listed in the Encyclopedia of Surfing as one of the most prominent surfers of his generation. His career in surfing started in the 60's. He has an incredible life story to share. I was honored to sit down for a chat with him.
Felipe was the first ISF (International Surfing Federation - ancestor of the WSL) World Surfing Champion in 1965. As an outstanding athlete, he has an incredible track record, and shares his experience of the day that changed the rest of his life.
When Felipe describes what it's like to surf in the 60's, it's as if you're transported into a Slim Aarons photo.
In 1974 Felipe was training with his best mate Pitty Block and was unfortunately trapped in one of the biggest earthquakes Peru has ever had to face. As only a true surfer would do, they decided to risk their lives and surf the tsunami that followed. He tells us the story of this doomsday catastrophe and how he came out alive. Ps kids, don't do this at home! This and other terrifying experiences could have made Felipe give up big wave surfing forever, but as he said, "when the horse bucks you off, you have to get back on".
Felipe has a life filled with adventure and adrenaline. It's not a surprise that at the age of 75 he still gets out every day for a surf. But, in fact, it was an autoimmune disease that triggered Felipe to look into alternative medicinal treatments and study longevity.
In the episode we talk about how Felipe still manages to be flexible, energized and ready to surf every day without second thoughts. There are some tips and really interesting things to take from this episode about longevity, and the use of high doses of Vitamins.
In fact, case in point, Felipe has become a longevity coach and co-founded an organisation called SurfTill100, that encourages people of all ages to develop a sustainable lifestyle. Obviously the objective is to surf till you're 100 years old. Felipe is a living breathing example of his remarkable findings.
In fact, thanks to his astonishing regime, he beat his 1968 paddle race time by 2 minutes at the age of 70!
This is the journey of a hero, and it's not over yet!!
Felipe Pomar, Jeff Hakman and Tom Woods are the surfing legends that founded Surftill100 and you can subscribe to their newsletter even if you don't join them in Huanchaco next May. In any case, you can connect with Felipe and his mates at www.surftill100.com
There is an amazing amount of information to be taken out of this conversation, and Felipe is such a humble, adorable and radiant human to talk to.
Felipe has Facebook but he has hit the maximum number of friends. In any case, if there's anything to take from Felipe's wisdom it's is leave your screen alone, and get out there! Now!
Thank you Felipe for being such an awe inspiring guest.
Until next week, take care, have fun and enjoy the waves.
Ciao!
Imi
Links
Surf Till 100 : https://home.surftill100.com
Life extension Foundation: https://www.lifeextension.com/
Felipe Pomar EOS page: https://eos.surf/entries/pomar-felipe
About The Oceanriders Podcast
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